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The Isolation of the Broghtons

6/25/2019

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PictureNo roads, no houses, nothing.
June 21  50º 51.079’N  126º 32.993’W

We’ve been in the Broughtons for two weeks, and at the moment Odyssey is anchored in O’Brien Bay at the head (end) of Simoom Sound.

In a few weeks, the summer influx of cruisers will be arriving to fill the few marinas each night and anchor in the numerous idillic bays. Some, like us, have arrived early. 

Despite the beauty of the area, the number of boats visiting the archipelago islands is relatively small compared to those that prowl popular Desolation Sound. I’ve written about the physical barriers, the gateways that must be passed to get here, but there are other things that keep these waters underutilized and pristine.

In these last two weeks I’ve begun to understand the isolation of the Broughtons.

At the turn of the twentieth century this area boasted some of the largest settlements and towns on the west coast of Canada. It was a busy time, with logging, mining and fishing driving the influx of workers and their families. Steam ships plied the waters on a regular basis and even the smaller settlements built schools, stores, taverns and post offices. 

But the industrial revolution would soon change the world. Hand loggers would be replaced by machines, economies would grow globally, and corporations would soon be directly collecting resources. By the 1980’s, this put an end to every single town, and the population quickly dwindled. What had been a not-so-wild area has become wilderness again. 

A place we stopped in, Shoal Bay, had a population of 5-7 thousand at the turn of the 20th century. Now the population is two. Simoom Sound, where we are today, had a population of hundreds, and all the services to support them. No one lives here now. All evidence of the families and docks and school have been removed or lost over to nature. Today, I would doubt more the several hundred people call the Broughton Archipelago home and that number is dropping each year.

Without people, there is little reason for infrastructure or services to be developed. This obviously isolates the area, but for boaters it presents some serious challenges. 

There were recently as many as seven marinas in the area. Now there are four, two of which are for sale. None of the marinas will take a boaters trash or recycling. Fuel is available at only two, along with small stores, but they are only stocked during July and August. Only one marina has potable drinking water. Though not a big deal for us, there is no cell coverage, and only limited wifi at the marinas. 

In the anchorages, walking areas are few and beaches are rare. Dingy access to the exposed tidal flats is hampered by the sharp, barnacle laden rocks. And there are bears here, black and brown (grizzlies). I know that encounters with bears rarely end badly, but it sure does make you think twice before following the trail through a berry patch.

So, with all that, why would anyone go to the trouble of coming up here?  

It’s a beautiful wilderness, with pristine waters, amazing wildlife, stunning vistas of glacier carved mountains, and a rich history of the First Nations, explorers and settlers. Here, you really can get away from it all.

But there is a sadness as well, one you can’t help but feel as you learn what once was. I’ve used the phrase “the world is moving on” to explain what happened when I stepped back from the mainstream rush of living. The world kept on going, passing me by in a surprisingly short amount of time.

Here in the Broughtons, more then anywhere I’ve been, an isolation has been imposed by the changing world. This isn’t undiscovered wilderness, it’s a place that has been left behind.

I wish I had a photo that could express how this feels, but I don’t. Thousands of square miles. A very quiet place.

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Waiting On Weather

6/13/2019

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Picture
Protected Lagoon Cove. Gale force just outside.
Just a quick note.
​We are holed up in Lagoon Cove due to inclement  weather. Wind, rain, and fog. Maybe another day or so till it clears. It’s nice not being in a rush. I guess we’re stuck eating shrimp again!


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Through All The Gates

6/12/2019

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Although we will still face some challenges, like westerly inflows of wind that can make for a bumpy ride, or tidal spots to access some bays, all the ‘gates’ we needed to get through on our way to the Broughtons have been successfully navigated.
We have arrived.


The gates in the order of transit:

Dodd Narrows
Strait of Georgia
Malaspina Strait
Yuculta Rapids
Gillard Pass
Dent Rapids
Devils Hole (in Dent Rapids.)
Whirlpool Rapids
Blind Channel
Green Point Rapids
Johnstone Strait
Chatham Channel
The Blow Hole

The trip has taken us 21 days. (We like being slow.)

This placed us safe and sound at Lagoon Cove marina, a bit of a legend in it’s own right. At 5pm, every day, they host a happy hour where boaters are encouraged to bring food while the marina provides all the prawns and shrimp you can eat.

It’s quaint and beautiful and protected and well worth the visit.

Besides, they have ice-cream bars on the dock for $3.81.

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Happy boat and crew at Lagoon Cove.
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All in good time....

6/7/2019

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Heads up. We are in the never never land. That is, never never having reliable internet access.

Because of this, my posts may be sporadic. Nothing for awhile, then multiple updates (like now) when I can get a connection that can handle something more then a 160 word text.

Thought you should know.
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The Gods At Play

6/7/2019

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We were treated to a magnificent thunderstorm last night here in Shoal Bay, British Columbia. There was crazy hard rain delivered by thunder cell after thunder cell. We didn’t see much in the way of lightning, just the flashes deep in the clouds, but the thunder rolled up the valleys, echoing back and forth till the next boom shook the air.

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Again....
Picture
and again...
Picture
and again.
It was the type of storm that rekindles our childish delight, reminding us of the power the world is capable of.

Watching and listening, it was easy to imagine how early cultures could attribute such a massive event to the gods, playing or fighting in the heavens above. Even knowing the science of the thing doesn’t diminish the awe and wonder.
Picture
Troublesome God. See him?

This morning we woke to sunlight streaming in, lighting the cabin in a warm glow. Breakfast and coffee on the deck, then drying things out from the rain. 

Shoal Bay is quickly becoming one of our favorite places.
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Reporting From The Edge

6/7/2019

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Reporting that Odyssey is at the dock in Shoal Bay, where I can see her from the shade of the bar, sipping beer, enjoying an amazing view, smiling.

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The Bar
Picture
The Beer
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The view.
I’m smiling because the passage through Gillard Pass, past Devil’s Hole and through Dent rapids, obviously didn’t kill us. In fact, it went really well. Gillard Pass had some serious upwelling, but the two knot tide was with us so we throttled up and raced our way through. Ten minutes later I wouldn’t have known we were over Devils Hole but it was marked on the chart, and by the time we hit Dent rapids, all was calm. We had a small but helpful tide assist nearly all the way to Shoal Bay, arriving like wizards, precisely when we wanted to.

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Devils Hole, Dent Rapids.
Timing. 

As I explained in my last post it really is about timing, and we did it well. We are through the worst of the rapids and our knowledge and confidence on tidal timing has grown exponentially. 

Now, in this lovely spot of respite, we relax and wait for the next fair tide. True, we could go tomorrow, but this place is worth staying a few extra days.

Looking across the bay to the snow kissed mountains above Phillips Arm, we raise a glass to the beauty of this place and to all who follow our dream.
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Yuculta Rapids

6/7/2019

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Reading everything you can find about a subject may not always be that helpful. Sometimes you just need to do a thing to understand it. But after safely transiting Yuculta Rapids today, I’m happy to report that sometimes researching/reading can be priceless.

I’ve pondered this part of the passage for the last two years, studying the details to death. It’s what I do. Today I put into practice what I’d learned.

The timing from Refuge cove was tricky, with little leeway for mistakes. We needed to be at the rapids no later then 11 am to catch the end of the ebb tide. If we were even 15 minutes late, we would have had to turn around and head down to Von Donop Inlet to wait till the next day.

To try and account for possible delays along the way we left the dock shortly after 6 am. Kudos to my crew for helping me function so early. Coffee was served before we even left the bay!
Picture
Refuge Cove, 6:15 AM. Honest.

We ended up right on time, slowly approaching the tidal stream area shown on the chart. I used the binoculars to look for rough water, but we had planned well and all was calm as I throttled up the engine.

We scooted through just fine, edging some upwellings and a few small whirlpools. An hour later, at dock, we started to see why these waters can be so hazardous. The current through the marina held Odyssey hard, dock lines tight. The outflow rapids a mile away sounded like a rushing river, or maybe  heavy surf. Out in that kind of water we would have little control going with the flow and no chance of fighting against it.
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Whirlpool Point, Yuculta Rapids. Click and zoom.

Tomorrow we tackle Dent Rapids and the infamous Devils Hole! I’ll report on that at our next stop, with drink in hand.
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Oh Canada!

6/2/2019

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This is Sunday evening, June 2nd, and we are quietly sitting at the dock in Refuge Cove. On May 30th we headed up from Westview Harbor in stunningly calm conditions and favorable currents. Things continued well as we rounded Sarah Point (that’s it’s real name), the iconic entrance to Desolation Sound, and took a leisurely course into Prideaux Haven, there to anchor, relax, play, and thoroughly enjoy Sarah’s birthday. And we did it well.
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Desolation Sound Ahead!
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Prideaux Haven
This morning we woke to muted sunlight, pulling up a clean anchor. It was only about two hours to Refuge Cove, less if the current was going our way, and it was. Once tied to the empty dock we did a little shopping, laundry and took showers. We filled water, propane, and fuel tanks.
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Birthday Cake too!
PictureFast Water
We leave in the morning (at an unhealthy hour) in the hopes of making it up Calm Channel and through Yuculta Rapids before the current starts fighting us. These are dangerous waters so the timing is important. If we are slow on our morning passage we’ll be forced to turn around and head down to Von Donop Inlet for a night on anchor before trying again the next day.

It’s wonderful being up here again. The area is just waking up from winter. There are so few people and everything is spring clean. The marinas are opening for the season, Refuge cove just this weekend.

I’d like to urge you to come and experience this, but I won’t. You can’t drive here, nor take a train. They do have a float plane dock, but there are no hotels, B&Bs or rental cars. There are no roads. This experience requires a boat and some time. There really is no other way.

For those who can’t be here, we’ll keep reporting on what we find and all the new adventures that challenge and delight us.

If you can, find a boat, learn to use it, and then untie the lines. We guarantee a lifetime of memories, even if you can only make it one season. British Columbia is worth it.

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    Odyssey


    Live as if you were to die tomorrow.
    Learn as if you were to live forever.
    -Mahatma Ghandi-

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