Blog Archives

Oh Canada!

6/28/2017

We head out early tomorrow morning for Port Sydney, B.C.
Off to Canada!
Quite a few things shaped the day we picked. The weather and tides foremost. We have been out on the hook most of the time. There was a long stint at the dock in Friday Harbor due to weather and then a long stretch in Reid Harbor on anchor because of just loving the place.
But we had a problem though. What to do about the upcoming holiday week? Canada Day is July 1st and is BIG. Forth of July kind of big. Of course we also had to consider the Forth of July here in the states. Where to go to avoid the crush of weekend boaters?
We could provision in Roche Harbor and run back up to Reid. It was big enough that we could sit out the crowds. Some of the areas around Roche sounded possible as well. About this time Sarah said “what’s wrong with just going to Canada?”. Well, I tried to explain that the gulf Islands are sure to be packed and every dock would have been booked for months. But at her urging I agreed to consider it. The turning point was when she suggested we embrace the celebrations and crowds. Forget about finding a way to hide, just go tourist and enjoy it.
Now why didn’t I think of that?
Sydney sounded amazing, a three day celebration with street fairs, music, and fireworks (in the bay). I was enthusiastic but doubtful any slip would be available, but called all the same. The gal at the harbor office confirmed that they had been booked for quite some time and there were waiting lists for every singe slip size. She apologized and then hesitated. She wanted to check one thing. It turns out there was one slip available just our size. It was still open because it has no power available. Yes!! I told her we didn’t need power and so in a mater of minutes we had a slip with a front row seat to Canada Day.
It’s a two hour sail from our anchorage in Roche Harbor to the breakwater of Port Sydney Marina. Then I’m thinking shower, lunch, and three amazing days helping the Canadians party.

1 Comment

I need a Whip

6/24/2017

0 Comments

As I sit and write this, Reid Harbor stretches away from Odyssey for about a mile in each direction. The sun is brutally hot, barely a breath of wind to moderate the ‘oven’ effect of sun above and water below. I’m sitting in the cockpit with my feet in a tub of cold sea water and a wet towel around my neck.
We took a dingy ride up to the shore to cool down. In some places we found shade on tiny beaches, shell strew, soon to disappear with the fast rising tide. We held hands, talked softly, reverently, as we slowly made our way, aware that this was private land.
Here and there are signs of long forgotten endeavors. What lives lived at the times so long ago? Roughly formed blocks of concrete hint at stairs and things, so overgrown their use can’t be discerned.
Back in our small craft the motor stayed off. Sarah rowed us slowly as we tried to find other hidden treasures. As slate gave way to sandstone, there, in a water carved pocket, sat something that quieted us down. A skull? At this distance it was hard to tell so I looked at Sarah “Closer?”.
“Absolutely” she answered.
I smiled.
Sure enough, there was a small skull set into the rock like some shrine. For a brief moment I thought of what to do. 911? Bother, I hoped it was an animal skull, but it wasn’t. At close inspection it wasn’t even real. A half size model of a human like skull. Creepy, yes. Sarah and I were grinning ear to ear.
“Camera?”
“Yes!”
Off we shot to Odyssey to get a shot before the tide would claim our prize.
Afterwards we tried to again slowly cruse the shore, but what artifact could top a hidden skull? Back to the boat and well deserved drinks.
Today, Indiana Jones had nothing on us.

Creepy but cool!

0 Comments

Reid Horbor By Steam

6/20/2017

0 Comments

We left our dock slip on time at 12:30 heading out the breakwater and around to the fuel dock. With a small favorable tide I'd hope to be at Spieden Channel anywhere from 2-2:30. This should give us a small following current through what could be a formidable obstacle if you did it at the wrong time.
With a topped off tank we headed out and up San Juan Channel in choppy seas. Having installed a new alternator in Friday Harbor I was keeping a good eye on the instruments and had Sarah act as a back up. About two miles from Spieden I looked down and the engine temp gauge was nearly pegged! It couldn’t have been but a minute or so since I had last looked so it was startling to say the least.
Turning the engine off I lifted an access lid in the cockpit to check the sea water intake plumbing and out bellowed clouds of antifreeze leaden steam. How could this happen? We unfurled the head sail and I gave Sarah orders as to where to head while I went down below to try and sort things out. To her credit she didn’t panic and took the wheel, telling me not to worry, she would handle everything above. What a crew!
After taking the companionway apart to gain access to the engine, the problem became obvious. The engine hose to the thermostat had come off and emptied the engine of cooling water in seconds. What a mess. The hose end was distorted from the clamp so I cut off about an inch then worried the hose back on the fitting. To my surprise the fitting was barbless and only as long as one hose clamp. I put everything together as best I could and filled the engine with hot water. Keeping fingers crossed I had Sarah pick a course and turn on the autopilot while she started the engine. Sure enough the temperature came right down and stayed there.
We quickly rolled up the headsail and away we went, half an hour or more late,. The channel was still in good shape and we passed by Roach Harbor and turned north for the short run into Reid Harbor.
I’m sure that temperature gauge hasn’t had that much attention in it’s entire life, but all went well.

Safely anchored in Reid Harbor

Our dingy on the park dock.

0 Comments

It won't last - a commentary by Sarah

6/15/2017

2 Comments

"It won't last!" These are frequently the words fellow sailors and friends say when we have them to dinner or for sundowners. They are not referring to Jonathan and I, or our living on the boat, but are commenting on our dishes. Yes, I have a kitchen full of lovely stoneware plates and bowls, hand made pottery mugs, vintage china and eek! - real glasses!

Now don't get the wrong idea here, this is not all matchie-matchie stuff, or expensive chinaware. They are all just favorite dishes, chosen from my vast thrift store inspired collection that filled 2 rooms at home. Dishes came onto Odyssey just because I loved the color or the shape, who made them or where I found them. If they made me smile, they made the boat, breakable, valuable or not.

While I did read all the advice on non-breakable kitchenware on a boat, I just could not bring myself to give up this pleasure, no matter how short the lifespan might be for things selected to come aboard. You see, I had a different viewpoint on dishes when I lived in a house and still do now on the boat. I never saved the pretty stuff, I used it and now I sail with it. 'The bowl is already broken' is a 'fake' Buddhist quote but I like the sentiment. Everything; me, my boat, my love, my books and my dishes will all break and cease to exist, I just want to enjoy them all as fully as possible while they and I am here.

So, pack up the good stuff, and bring it on board, we're all not going to last.

2 Comments

Weather or Not

6/13/2017

0 Comments

So, a big windstorm that will affect everything from Oregon North. Our time in Friday Harbor was up and I was having a tough time with finding a safe place to sit out gusts to 34 knots. You see, Sarah is the adventurous one. She is always ready to go, go further and stay longer. As captain I’m the one who worries. I couldn’t delay it any longer. I sat with her and started a discussion about wind and tides and unknown anchorages.
In the moment of realization Sarah asked “Are you asking me if I’’d be ok staying safe in Friday Harbor till the storm passed?”
“Well, yes..” was all I could answer.
To her credit she had to tease me. “Hmm, let me think. Great showers, restaurants, shopping….or go out someplace we have never been to drop the hook and see what happens?”
Her grin told me all I needed to know.
I couldn’t ask for a better crew.
So we are staying safe at the dock till the storm passes. It looks like Saturday will be nice for the transit and off we will go.
A good friend sent me a note today. It sums it all up perfectly.

“The sailor with no schedule always has perfect weather…”
Bob, SV Eolian

0 Comments

June 10th, 2017

6/10/2017

1 Comment

Echo Bay, Sucia Island

We sailed from Sucia Island down to Friday Harbor yesterday (Friday of course). It was a delightful three hour trip but we had to leave early to catch the tides. At one point in Presidents Channel we hit 8.5 knots with the assist of a following current.
So far Friday Harbor is the best ‘one stop’ port we have found West of Anacortes. One stop means propane, groceries, diesel, gas, pump out, showers, and water for our tanks. The Saturday farmer’s market was a bonus.

Our haul from the market

We are staying for longer then we normally would to give me time to do some boat maintenance. It’s difficult on anchor to go below and fix things. Beside, I can get parts in town just a few blocks from the marina.
If all goes well we will be back out Tuesday, headed to Reid Harbor on Stuart Island. This should be our last stop till entering Canada later in the week.

1 Comment

Ode To Bob

6/6/2017

1 Comment

Not too long ago a friend and fellow captain gave me some advice.
This is written in his honor. With a smile.
Bob, I should have listened.

Ode to Bob

I’m a man of truth and sails and puppy dog tails, make no mistake of that.
But I find that most I meet to be naive and elite, possessing little fact to stand on.
When they talk aloud of discoveries found I still may concede to listen,
Then they say, in their gay little way, “not that I have, but that’s what I heard of”.
Posh!
So I’m prone to do some research, investigate and critique.
For it seems my fellow man, in all his Shazam, can be a bit, shall we say, oblique.
But sometimes, oh so rarely, I hear a voice speak from defeat,
It makes me smile when this kindred soul of guile stands up and by chance we happen to meet.
We talk the talk and walk the walk, sharing insights and opinions.
In inebriated bliss we may even share suspicions.
One such man, we’ll call him Bob, took to enlighten my every suggestion,
drinking IPA on a sunny day, gave me warning that I should never have questioned.
“Beware the buoy, leave it well alone, only grief will it bring too ya.”
With a wink and a grin, I downed my dry gin, and leaned in for a little verbatim.
“Bob” I smiled, so aloof I have said “I’ve already read all I need to know. I have bought a contraption of thought and distraction that will ensure a successful ultimatum.”
He leaned back with a sigh, content with his try, this is all he could do for the novice.
So next day we left our dock, contraption and blocks, setting course for parts so far unwritten.
Then that day, that faithful day, came calling like the devil.
There I stood, booties and hood cursing that buoy as spawn and evil.
4 AM, or was it 5? My mind numb from the grind unending.
It seems dear Bob, his warning with cause, was right and these demons should be smitten.
So here I am, a wiser man, duly humbled at my friends suggestion.
I can only ask of those many new to the task,
“When it comes to buoys can I sell you a contraption?”

1 Comment

Time and Tides; Sucia Island State Park; Echo Bay; Ship Wrecks

6/4/2017

2 Comments

We’ve been through several tide cycles while sailing in the San Juans. There are times when the tide swing is large and steep, resulting in some serious tidal flows in any narrow passage between islands. If you have a large boat with a little engine you watch for the big flows, and then avoid them. Time it wrong and t’s possible to be ‘full ahead’ while actually moving backwards. As captain I plan our routes through passes at high or low tide, and then fudge it just a little so if delayed, the flow will help us get through, giving a little push in the right direction.
Today our route took us from the south side of Orcas Island all the way around to the north side and then a bit further to the Boundary Islands. These are the last American Islands here. A little further north and it’s all Canada. This was the longest distance we have traveled in a day and it took us through Obstruction Pass out into Rosario Strait and then north through the largest open waters we have yet seen. The tides were gentle and in our favor, our passage was calm and without incident. We did encounter some swells generated far south, possibly from Juan de Fuca Straight. They were big, slow rolling things that Odyssey had no problems with.
Clearing Lawrence Point we angled northwest and headed straight for Sucia Island, ten plus miles off, visible on the overcast horizon. The spaces here are great, open water as far as you can see, then islands or towering mountains in the distance. Almost two hours later we came into Echo Bay, Sucia Island, our stop for the day. Having read this was a busy place during the summer, we weren’t surprised to find about a dozen boats there. It’s a big bay with lots of State Park mooring balls. We found one quickly and ‘picked’ it up. This involves passing a line through a steel loop on top of the buoy. This way we don’t have to drop our anchor.
The wind died down and the clouds departed leaving a warm sun and near mirror waters. I did have my doubts about this spot. When we anchor in a new location I’ll leave the instruments on so I can verify location and depth for a safety. So there I am, sitting at the helm watching things, and the depth meter goes from 22 feet down to six in just a few seconds as we drift in the light wind. As I stood up it went right back to 23 and held. What? Something wrong with the gauge? I watched for awhile and sure enough there it went, shallow again. I dashed up to the deck, peering into the clear green water to see what was below us. I’m thinking there must be a wreck down there, I doubt the park system would install a buoy with rocks right below it. After 20 minutes of doing this dance I caught a glimpse of the culprit. An enormous school of herring passing below the keel. So dense in numbers my depth gauge could read it. With a grin and sigh I stood down from watch.
Tomorrow we explore the island. Unlike the rocky geography further south, this area is dominated by sandstone, known for being sculpted by wind and waves. It should be beautiful.

2 Comments